Ephesus
I remember exactly where I was the day Neil Armstrong walked on the moon. Ditto for the day our hostages in Iran came home. And now, forever etched in my mind, is my first view of the ancient library of Ephesus on October 13, 2009.
The Library of Celsus (its formal title) was completed in 135 A.D. by Aquila in memory of his father, Celsus, former governor of Asia and a prominent local citizen. It was known around the world for its stunning collection of over 12,000 scrolls.
The entrance faces east to capture the morning light. With sixteen towering columns, eight Ionic on the lower level and eight Corinthian on the upper level, you feel more intelligent just standing before this magnificent entrance.
There are three front doors, reached by climbing nine steep steps that run the full width of the building. The center entrance is larger than the other two, and all three have windows above them. On either side of each entrance is a female statue, four total, representing wisdom, fortune, knowledge, and virtue. Celsus was buried here among his beloved scrolls.
Ephesus and the area surrounding it has been inhabited since the Neolithic Age, 6000 B.C. It was a bustling port town with a population of over 250,000 during the Roman period, beginning about 190 B.C. By 1090 A.D. it had dwindled down to a small village due to the silting of the harbor and the destruction of the Temple of Artemis.
The Temple of Artemis was completed in 550 B.C. and was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. People came from all over the known world to worship Artemis (virgin sister of Apollo) at her temple. The temple was three times the size of the Parthenon, and when St. John prayed here half the temple is reported to have fallen down.
Paul lived in Ephesus from A.D. 52-54 and converted the locals as well as the visiting Artemis worshippers to Christianity. He preached in the great theater here, capacity 25,000, and our group was allowed to stand on the exact stage where he stood.
The local artisans of Ephesus began to feel the economic impact of the Christian converts, as they ceased to buy the statues of Artemis or other souvenirs of their pilgrimage to the temple. Due to their complaints, Paul was imprisoned here, and eventually forced to leave.
One of the most fascinating features of ancient Ephesus is the public latrine. The large room is shaped like a U, and there are multiple toilet seats carved along the walls from marble. With continually running water beneath the seats and an orchestra in the center of the room, the latrine was a place to get out and enjoy a pleasant interaction with your neighbors. If you were wealthy, you sent your slave ahead of you to sit on the marble and warm the seat. A hole was also cut in the area behind your calf, where your slave would insert a sponge soaked in vinegar (on the end of a stick) and clean your privates.
There is a very large gladiator graveyard in Ephesus. One gladiator is reported to have been so depressed that he went into the public latrine before his fight and killed himself by choking on one of the vinegar soaked sponges.
Ancient Ephesus valued education, women (due to their devotion to Artemis) and immigration. St John lived here with Mary, the mother of Christ, and died here. There is a church built by Emperor Justinian over his tomb.
Mary reportedly died here as well, and her home, as well as the Church of St Mary is found here. Her grave has unfortunately never been located.
There are the remains of public baths, brothels, smaller ampi-theaters used for concerts and political meetings, fountains, ancient homes, and smaller temples to lesser deities in Ephesus. You can spend an afternoon or much longer exploring these ancient ruins.
One thing is certain, no matter how long you are able to stay, your trip to Ephesus will be unforgettable.